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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.